Soon everyone owns a GoPro. Even the average joe just wanting cool video playing with the kids. For everyone using them proessionally one thing missing is an easy way to add filters, mostly ND. You see GoPro shots all over television and even in film. But they stand out a little mostly perhaps because of the shutter which can’t be set manually. The exposure is controlled by the shutter speed, which outdoors in the sun, is often very fast. Being able to add ND would take shutter speeds down allowing for some motion blur.
Enter Lee Bug System. To start off with it seems like 0.9 ND grad (3 stops) and polarizer are the two filters being offered, but I am sure we’ll see a range of regular ND’s soon.
I am not sure about the claim on LeeFilters site that the ND Grad filter “can be left in place for pretty much all outdoor filming and the effects are plain to see.” but to each his own. 🙂
They also sell an underwater kit. More details on.
We just finished a project (Anne på väg, SVT) where we shot interviews with multiple GoPro camera inside a car. I was asked to setup the solution for this and one of the things we wanted was to be able to monitor the cameras from a follow car to make sure the cameras were rolling, composition etc.
The rig is pretty simple. (After all the HDMI mess) we hook up each GoPro to continues power to bypass the battery problem. A micro HDMI is also attached to each camera and all the cables are run to the back of the trunk. Here we installed the control plate with the HDMI-SDI converters and our quad split. The signal from the quad so then transmit to the follow car for monitoring.
First we have the control panel.
1 Convergent Design Odyssey 7q which acts as our monitor and quad split. We could easily switch between full frame (for composition) and the quad. Then we have 3 Aja HMDI-SDI converters which converts the GoPro signal to SDI for the quad. The 4th camera in the car was wild and unmonitored. Everything in the back is DC powered by V-lock batteries. We left the OSD (On Screen Display) on in the GoPros so to see that the REC was on. The quad signal from the Odyssey 7Q was sent to a Pix240 which recorded a proxy with timecode for logging purpose and the signal was looped on to the link.
The trick here was to sync the GoPros for the edit. For budget reasons external recorder with locked TC was opted out which would have been the easy choice. Instead we had our Master Timecode in the Sound Bag, which was a TIMECODY BUDDY, feed an iPad with synced code. This code visually slated each go pro to easy sync in post. (Actually every goPro clip was later transcoded into a new clip with correct/soundmatched timecode and DNxHD.) Very easy way to establish correct Timecode to non-timecode cameras.
For the link to the follow car we chose the Bolt2000 from Teradek. We put the antennas externally on the car with helped with range. This is a line of sight system which looses the connection if you drive around the corner of a street. It will reconnect however one yore back in line of sight. The system has one problem though. If power is lost the units they don’t reconnect, it seems, without a reboot. This needs to be addressed in future firmwares! The system worked ok. It had some drops but recovered once back in range. It was really only a backup system for us to be able check that the cameras were rolling during the 20-30 min takes. Audio was easily monitored via a wireless boosting a 1w transmitter, with great quality and reliability.
All in all this was a very successful setup. The wireless link had it’s dropout, mostly due to to travelling at speed in a car, but the rest of the system was rock solid! During 18 days, and countless hours of footage, we did NOT loose 1 clip due to a GoPro shut down. The new firmware in the GoPro with options to the flat picture profile was great.
Running everything on DC, including some lights is a bit of a charging mess at night though. I think we had something like 14 V-lock batteriers in use. 😉
So this finally got a solution. After a looooot of trial and error, ordering new/different HDMI-SDI converters, quad splits etc etc, AJA was the solution.
I am trying to monitor 3 GoPro cameras to make sure they are recording inside the main vehicle as we are riding in the follow car. My thought was simple enough, run the GoPro signal with on-screen display (OSD) into an HDMI-SDI converter, connect to Quad split and transmit signal to follow car. In reality is proved not so easy.
The Atomos Connect didn’t work at all, would not convert 1080/25p to SDI.
The BMD battery converter converted the signal to SDI but somehow corrupted it. It showed up fine on Sony OLED monitor but would NOT monitor on Marshall 5 inch or our Odyssey 7q (our quad solution)
Ordered the Decimator Quad split box. Is converted the signal in 4:3 and only put out a SD/SDI and I needed to have and HD out.
So it was as easy as AJA. It converted the HDMI to SDI and showed on the Sony and the quad mode in the Odyssey 7q.
The reason I tried Atomos and Black Magic Design first was that they had a built in battery, which the AJA does not.
Also I need to give lots of credit to Scandinavian Photo I Malmo which has has been so helpful in ordering gear and helping out.
Here is first try on a finished rig. Missing some wiring and stuff but I now see the light at the end of the tunnel. 🙂
HDMI is really taking hold on the broadcast/film industry and pretty much all the big players now offer it somewhere. Black Magic design, Sony, Canon, Convergent Design and so on now have this as a standard and you see it in monitors, cameras and recorders, transmitters and receivers.
But it seems that an HDMI connector/signal is simply not just an HDMI connector/signal. I’ve been trying to concert a GoPro Hero 3+ black edition camera from HDMI to SDI for a about a week now.
My first try was with the Atomos Connect. It won’t convert the GoPro unless the camera is set to 720/100?!! It will NOT lock in any other picture mode of 720 or 1080. The Atomos receives the signal but won’t lock and it seems to be some sort of “hand shake/protocol” issue.
Then I tried the Black Magic Design HDMI-SDI converter with the built in battery. It worked great on a Sony 17″ OLed but when I tried it on my 5″ Marshall it didn’t work…
I wish HDMI was more like SDI. I think it is a huge problem when something works only sometimes with certain “compatible” equipment. I don’t know if this is an issue related to the GoPro HDMI out but when in doubt I go by the practice: “Don’t assume, test!”
I am wondering how many still shooters are using the GoPro Hero line of cameras. I can think of many great potential uses for them, especially since the introduction of 4K.
At 15 frames/s in 4K resolution being able to pull 8MP stills should easily work for action/sports/news photography. Yes at its widest it is fish eye looking but when that doesn’t work you can use other modes with less distortion. Think of mounting the camera in a hockey goal for example, and have 15fr/s continuously, in 8MP.
Before you send lecturing emails 🙂 explaining you need at least 1/500 shutter to freeze the action just consider the possibility. It may not work now but perhaps the next version GoPro Hero 4 will allow for faster shutter speed with increased sensitivity.
Is there anyone using GoPro cameras for news/sport stills work today?? Please chime in.
Today GoPro released a new camera the GoPro Hero3+. New and improved, slimmer design and what not.
It’s said to have a better, sharper lens and improvement to both metering and white balance . SuperView which takes a 4:3 1440p image and squeezes it into 16:9 1080p image.
The biggest thing, perhaps, is a better battery which lasts longer than the current one, which without exaggeration, sucks.
Think back what kind of video images a matchbook sized $400 camera delivered just a few years ago…
The bad thing, or perhaps GoPro business idea, is as soon as I buy a new one I NEVER use the old ones, they make a nice collection though… 🙂
Have a look at there video and then go: “Aaaah all of that for $400! I’ll take two!”
I tried to record from the Gopro into the Pix240 today but couldn’t get it to work properly. It looks fine on the display, it reads as 1080/50i, but when you look at the Recorded image on the SSD it is full of digital jitter.
Today right before leaving the office I tried hooking up our GoPro Hero 3 Black edition to our Pix240. After turning off the OSD (on screen display) on the GoPro I got a clean picture on the Pix.
The display on the Pix read the incoming video as 1080/50i/8bit.
Tomorrow I’ll record some video to see what it looks like. If clean and uncompressed out of the GoPro it’d be nice to pass on the in-camera codec and record in ProRes.
The #GoPro Hero 3 Black was announced last night and both pretty cool specs. It’s both smaller and lighter and the fact that its offering 1080p at 50/60 as well as the built in WiFi will most likely make us pick up a couple of these badboys. At $400 a pop they’re still priced to sell like hot cakes!
The other big thing talked about if 4k res at 15 fps and 720p at a whopping 120 fps.
Available October 22
4K at 15fps, 2.7K at 30p. 1080p at 60, and 720p at 120 fps. WiFi built in.